If you read my review on Rick Owens' S/S 09' collection, you know that I ended it with...
"I am curious as to what Demeulemeester and Yamamoto will show? Will we see this more refined girl or should we expect that signature girl who is a bit grungy and gothic?"
Well the verdict is in, as expected Yohji Yamamoto's S/S 09' collection was much more refined than usual. The show did not necassirly give use anything new in regards to silhouette but something about it was calm, peaceful and refreshing. There was almost a meditative feel to it. Yohji = Yoga?
The show started with interesting black asymmetrical suits; while the asymmetry has become a Yamamoto signature, this season he managed to add some eye-pleasing aspects to it. Really interesting sleeves, lapels and tails really added a fresh touch to the collection. The jackets were paired with either slim silhouette pants or the classic Yamamoto full skirt. Next, Yamamoto showed a few ivory dresses, which surprisingly managed to remain edgy while still being quite feminine. The dresses were actually constructed by piecing together white & cream fabric swatches; which I found incredibly interesting. He then took us into a more casual phase, with great white over-sized shirts, irregular shaped vests and pants that were made of ultra-light and sometimes sheer fabrics.
It was refreshing to see Yamamoto give us something that was so wearable. Again, I am really enjoying seeing this more refined girl. She tends to still take risks but knows how to remain polished through it all. I have a feeling that Demeulemeester will be quite similar in regards to the refinement of her girl.