Frida Giannini, the designer behind the Gucci label offered three key ideas for the brand's Spring/Summer 2009 collection: lean, snappy suits with low-slung pants, fedoras adding that certain je ne sais gangster; lively, leggy micro caftans in bold prints and tricked-out safari looks. Except for the last category, everything came in vivid color — turquoise, purple, bright green. So, too, did the eveningwear, floating visions in silk jersey and chiffon, some of which seemed to be having an identity crisis.
Next, the accessories; Gucci’s roots are in accessories, as are those of its designer, and neither fact could have been more apparent. Giannini piled on the merch with gusto, piece after piece that shouted, “Buy me!”: hats; the New Jackie bags, bigger, softer with giant whipstitching; python backpacks; chokers, long chains, and terrific, earthy jewelry flashing multiple big, flat-cut agate and amethyst stones.
I feel that the collection was expected. Maybe some of the prints were unexpected but overall, you sort of knew what you are going to get from Giannini. She is very predictable, however Giannini knows how to make money. She has taken the Gucci brand from the upper echelons of luxury fashion and moved it to more of a commercial brand that is able to be replicated or copied quite easily. If you really pay attention to Zara's Fall 08 collection, you will see it is a knock-off of The Fall 08 collection of Gucci. Now, this is on one-hand a smart idea of Giannini because it exposes the masses to the Gucci label. On the other hand to some she is not really representing the true Gucci brand that Tom Ford really set out to have. One thing about Tom Ford is his designs for Gucci were quite Italian and Gucci sold very well in Italy and Europe in general. Now, Gucci is selling more and more in the United States because the collection has become much more American. Many Europeans who I know feel that Gucci has become so American, it doesn't relate to Europeans any longer.
Thoughts?
(courtesy of WWD)
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