Martin Margiela showed his S/S 09' collection yesterday in Paris and I have to say it was true eye-candy. I love when designers make us wonder, "How did they think of that". As a creative person, it is a great feeling when my creativity is challenged. The first thing I should point out is how Margiela covered the faces of all the models in the show. For the 20th anniversary collection, he decided to let the looks speak for themselves. I thought it was brilliant. So many times we fall in love with a look because of what a particular model brings to that look. No faces = No distractions.
For this season, Margiela really took us on a joy-ride. He pulled inspiration from some of his most ground-breaking looks of his previous collections. For instance, he started with a slightly puffed Edwardian-shouldered jacket that dates from his first Spring collection, designed in 1988. Ironically, the jacket can still be worn today and would not come off at all as vintage. He also showed us the pointed shoulder pads of 2006 and the circular-cut leather of 2005.
Just about every look had a feel of familiarity about it, and all of it was carried off without Margiela having to compromise his previous looks to make them relatable to today's market. As usual, the show ended without anyone coming out to give a bow or to take credit for the collection. It would have been great to finally see Margiela come out after 20 years, but I assume he was backstage, basking in his glory as the crowd roared and cheered after the show.
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