Saturday, October 4, 2008

CHANEL S/S 09 - Merci Beaucoup de la Collection Mise à Jour


Lagerfeld decided to bring all invitees to an in-house viewing of the Chanel S/S 09' collection - well sort of. In this business it's all about an illusion. This season, that illusion was the Chanel runway; which was an exact replica of the ever-so-fabulous flagship Chanel boutique at 31, rue Cambon in Paris.

According to Lagerfeld the theme of the show was inspired by a grayish portrait by Marie Laurencin. Laurencin was a french painter who painted Coco Chanel in the 1920's.

If you follow the Chanel collection from season to season, you know that there are fundamentals that are always present in each collection - tweeds, bows, camellia flowers and indescribably pretty cocktailwear. The color palette is usually black, white and gray; however, there is some "wiggle-room" that allows the use of some color. This season Karl used eye-catching paint-like prints, metallics, sheer fabrics and a few lingerie techniques that really made the collection feel new. You could definitely tell it was a Chanel collection but something about felt unaccustomed; which was great to see.

We saw jumpsuits, ruffled skirts (which I loved), swimwear, and a update to the Chanel carrier bag which made it much more modern.

In the end, I have to say that my favorite update to the collection were the cropped bolero's. They just read so chic, modern and smart. I am very pleased with the collection overall. I got what I expected; plus more.


Runway:




Collection:





Friday, October 3, 2008

MAN DOWN!! - or shall I say WOMAN

This is shocking news.

Today at the Alexander Mcqueen s/s 09' show; One model fainted as she exited the runway and had to be carried out. Who the model was still has not been confirmed; however, I have a strong feeling that it is model Abbey Lee. Just look at her in this image. Sh
e looks a bit "out of it".
*CONFIRMED* - It has been confirmed that the model was in deed Abbey Lee.

Thursday, October 2, 2008

MOST POWERFUL VOGUE??



“Which country has the most powerful VOGUE; Italy, France or the United States"? - I have been asked this question on numerous occasions. It is a very difficult question to answer because the definition of "power" could vary from person to person. However, I am up for the challenge. Let me start off by saying that the American Vogue was the original Vogue. It is the book that initiated the Vogue brand. After which, followed by Vogue Italia and then Vogue Paris.

Vogue Italia: Vogue Italia was launched in 1964 and was one of the first magazines in Italy to put the commercial aspect of fashion to the side and bring creative, avant-garde fashion journalism to the forefront. Since 1988, the Editor-In-Chief has been Franca Sozzani; who is credited with discovering the great Steven Miesel. Vogue Italia currently has a tiny circulation of around 145,000. I must point out that you should not let the small circulation fool you. Europeans traditionally do not buy magazines in the way that American’s do. While an American magazine’s circulation can be a couple of million, It is almost non-existent for a European magazine to have a similar circulation.

Moving on, Italian Vogue tends to make its statements through startling, provocative images rather then the written word. It has been said that it is the “Top fashion magazine in the world”. For some time now, it has been considered the most inspirational Vogue in the sense of creativity. However, over the past few years, many people (especially Italians) have started to get bored with the Italian Vogue and have instead started to go to the French Vogue for inspiration.


Vogue Paris: Vogue Paris (aka French Vogue; Vogue France) was launched in 1987. Unlike American magazines, it is unconcerned with making fashion wearable or accessible to its readers. It is not inclusive: There is no advice on how to dress if you’re shaped like a pear, apple or hourglass and they don’t care about how you are going to dress when you are about to turn 50. French Vogue does not give a damn. The Editor-In-Chief for the past 7 years is the great, ever so spectacular
Carine Roitfeld; who by the way actually styles editorials for the magazine; which is FABULOUS but not common. One thing that is very interesting about Carine is how she prepares to style a fashion editorial. Traditionally, the majority of Fashion Editors and Stylists start with the clothes. They get inspired by a certain shape, color or theme within the clothing. However, Carine actually starts with the model. She looks at a model and then comes up with a story that she feels is suitable to the girl. She sort of makes a movie in her mind and continues to ask herself “Who is this girl”?

Vogue Paris currently has a SMALLER circulation than Vogue Italia; with only 133,000 copies sold monthly. However, as I said before Vogue Paris has really began to be the “go-to” publication for inspiration. Many Fashion Editors tend to find Vogue Paris the perfect blend of American Vogue and Italian Vogue; which ironically is a great blend. Italian Vogue is very creative, while American Vogue knows how to sell the “it” dress, the “it” shoe and the “it” bag. We all want magazines to be creative and to inspire us but magazines MUST also help designers sell merchandise in order to keep advertisements and in order to make money. So being somewhere in the middle of creative and commercial is great.

Vogue U.S : American Vogue was founded in 1892 and started as a bimonthly publication. It has for some time been considered the “Fashion Bible” and is either LOVED or HATED. It is EXTREMELY commercial and has received some criticism from readers on that issue. Many people feel that American Vogue demands that it reader must buy, buy, buy in order to be “in fashion”. Regardless of all, American Vogue boasts a circulation of 1. 3 million. So obviously, they are doing something right. The current Editor-In-Chief is Anna Wintour; who has been in power since 1988. Since taking over, Wintour has become what some call “The most powerful person in the Fashion industry”. She has become famous for her signature bob and her act of wearing sunglasses inside.

While American Vogue is the most powerful magazine in the United States, it tends to be only relative here in the states and not really as important in Europe.

So which is most powerful?
We have Italian Vogue, which has actually been called the “Top Fashion Magazine in the World, French Vogue, which is a perfect blend of creative and commercial fashion and then we have American Vogue, which makes the most money.

In my opinion, I believe French Vogue is the most powerful right now. Paris houses the best designers so ultimately, French Vogue get's first dibs on Dior, Chanel, YSL, Balenciaga, Commes de Garcons, etc. Also, I find it relative to all people who are interested in fashion because it has such a great balance of creative juices and commercial viability. The creative person can look at it and get inspired along with the typical consumer/shopper who can look at it specifically to buy. I love American Vogue and as many of you know Grace Coddington (Creative Director of American Vogue) tremendously inspires me. I also love Italian Vogue, but for me the French Vogue takes the cake.

EXCLUSIVE - Drew Barrymore covers November issue of HARPER'S BAZAAR


Drew Barrymore will be the next Bazaar covergirl. The 33 year-old actress has secured the cover of the Novermber issue of US Harper's Bazaar. I am not a big fan of it. I don't mind the election theme, I actually think it was a great idea but the image of Drew is not at all pleasing to the eye. She looks frozen and her jawline is ironically large.

On a side note, can the US majors (Vogue, Elle, Bazaar) please stop recycling the same cover girls? If I see Drew or Keira one more time, I am going to scream.

Viktor & Rolf Spring 2009 - SCREW THE MAYHEM!!



No invitations! No seating charts! No traffic jams! No endless waiting! Don't you wonder why? Well of course, I will tell you.

This season Viktor & Rolf decided not to have an actual runway presentation. They opted to do a web-show. Which actually was VERY cool. The coolest thing you will notice is that when you watch the show; there is only 1 model! Yep, the great Shalom Harlow was the only model in the Viktor & Rolf show. I bet you are so confused. Well remember in the world of digital technology, anything is possible.

It took two-and-a-half days to shoot Shalom Harlow and a team of 57 to insert her along with her clones along the virtual runway. At the finale, the "models" stood in array clapping before dissolving into so many pixels and evaporating into the digital air.

Overall, the concept overshadowed the looks. There were only 21 looks in the collection and while there were some great pieces, overall none of them delivered a real WOW factor.

You can view the 1-woman runway show here: Viktor & Rolf s/s 09' show

Enjoy!


Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Dries Van Noten S/S 09' - Toned down & Fabulous!


If you are familiar with Dries Van Noten, you were probably expecting a bright, colorful, printed collection this season, right? Well, let me be the first to tell you that your expectations were wrong. Yesterday as he gave his inspiration thoughts to the press, Dries stated, “I thought what emotion a black stripe could give.” With that thought Dries decided to design a modernist collection of mostly black and white; while still keeping the "Driesness" by being very pleasing to the eye.

The result was spectacular in a very quiet and mute way. We saw boxes, grids and graphs replace the bright florals that we have become accustomed to. Also, he gave us a show where literally the clothes are all wearable by the consumer and do not have the need to be broken down. You can sort of buy directly from the runway. Genius.


Let's talk about sportswear, I usually find sportswear totally out of my element as far as style. I prefer a bit more chic, polished and sophisticated. However, in a very smart way, Van Noten made his sportswear quite chic. He started the show with a patterned shirt, a
black sweater and white pants. From start to finish the looks pretty much remained quite simple. We did see a few pairings of interesting prints and a splash of color towards the middle of the show but again, things remained quite simple. However there was 1 dress that had 50 shades of blue. I didn't even know there were 50 shades of blue, but nonetheless, it was beautiful.

In conclusion, the show was still strong, without being overbearing. I really enjoyed it.

Karl Lagerfeld S/S 09' - Rock out!



We all know that Karl Lagerfeld is the designer behind Fendi and Chanel right? Well, I find it strange that in the United States people tend to not realize that Karl Lagerfeld also designs for another line. The line of "Karl Lagerfeld". Yes, it's true. It's so weird because I never see Karl Lagerfeld's collection used in editorials and it's always quite interesting. I always enjoy this collection because it is true Karl Lagerfeld style. The girls are usually rocked out and the collection is always really cool and funky.

Today Karl debuted his S/S 09' collection and of course, it did not disappoint. There was a consistent use of these really innovative patent leather corsets/belts that were to die for. The punk-rock styling which is consistent with the collection, some how felt new. I don't understand how he does it but he can continue to make the same thing look and feel new (ie: Chanel box cut blazer). He primarily used black, white and silver but we sporadically saw a few prints, the use of navy and in one occasion a really beautiful soft rose color.

Interesting necklines are always a Karl speciality and some of them in this collection were quite eye-pleasing. The shapes were familiar, sometimes innovative in the end but overall, they have been seen before. One thing that I found rather fabulous was the handbag with the image of Lagerfeld on it. Angela Lindvall came out, bag up to her face and eyes peeping through. At first I admit it looked rather silly but in the end Lagerfeld is such an icon, the bag is going to sell. Just hopefully, the person who buys it does not feel the need to walk around the streets with her eyes peeping through the bag.

October 08' Vogue Covers!!!


It is now October! Do you realize in 3 months we will celebrating another year of the past? Wow! This year really flew past.

Moving on, I thought it would be interesting to show you all the majority of the International VOGUE covers for the month. Some are great, some are okay and one is just plain bad.

Obviously, my favorite is the German Vogue to the right, something about it is so beautiful!





Please note the order & cover details
Vogue Germany -
Magdalena Frackowiak in Dior. (Main Image - above)
Vogue Italia - Anna Maria Jagodzinska in Prada.
Vogue Paris - Christy Turlington in D&G
Vogue China - Du Juan in Gucci
Vogue America - Rachel Weisz in Rodarte.
Vogue UK - Kate Moss in Atelier Versace and Haute parka.
Vogue Russia - Raquel Zimmermann in Balmain.
Vogue Australia - Natasha Poly in Bottega
Vogue Nippon - Lily Donaldson in Dolce & Gabbana.
Vogue Espana - Malgosia Bela in Lanvin
Vogue Korea - Carla Bruni in Dior Spring 08′
Vogue India - Aishwarya Rai in Dior couture


Enjoy!!!